A glass of Santorini Assyrtiko beside grilled fish is one of the great holiday memories. Yet a good Greek wine guide should start somewhere less postcard-perfect: Greece makes far more than crisp island whites. Its mountainous mainland, sunny islands and ancient vine heritage produce wines with real personality, from saline, taut whites to perfumed rosés and serious, age-worthy reds.
For drinkers who enjoy finding something outside the familiar French, Italian and Spanish routes, Greek wine is particularly rewarding. The names may take a little practice, but the styles are easy to enjoy once you know where to begin.
Why Greek wine deserves a place on your table
Greece has been growing grapes for millennia, but its modern wine story is much more than history. A generation of ambitious growers and winemakers has paired indigenous varieties with careful vineyard work, cleaner cellar techniques and a renewed focus on place. The result is a wine scene that feels both ancient and fresh.
Altitude matters here. Many vineyards sit on hillsides or in mountainous areas, where cooler nights preserve acidity in a hot climate. Coastal breezes and rocky soils add further lift. That is why Greek whites can be so refreshing, even when they carry ripe peach, citrus or tropical fruit flavours.
Indigenous grapes are the real reason to explore. You will see international varieties too, occasionally blended with local grapes, but Xinomavro, Assyrtiko, Agiorgitiko and Moschofilero are not imitations of anything else. They offer a distinct sense of Greece without requiring a special occasion or an encyclopaedic wine vocabulary.
Greek wine guide: the grapes to know
Assyrtiko
Assyrtiko is Greece's most celebrated white grape and a fine starting point for lovers of Chablis, Picpoul or dry Riesling. At its most famous on Santorini, it is dry, citrus-led and strikingly mineral, often with a salty edge that makes the mouth water. Think lemon zest, grapefruit, white peach and wet stone rather than overtly fruity sweetness.
Santorini's volcanic soils and exceptionally old, ungrafted vines give Assyrtiko its most intense expression. The vines are traditionally trained low in basket-shaped coils to protect the grapes from strong winds. These wines can be firm and serious when young, and the best examples develop honeyed, smoky complexity with bottle age.
Assyrtiko is not limited to Santorini. On the mainland it can be slightly rounder and more immediately fruity, often offering excellent value. For roast chicken, grilled sea bass, feta salads or simply a plate of salty snacks, it is hard to beat.
Moschofilero
Moschofilero is a wonderfully fragrant white, usually from the high plateau of Mantinia in the Peloponnese. Expect rose petals, citrus blossom, pear and a gently spicy note, supported by lively acidity. It is aromatic without being heavy and makes a bright alternative to Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc.
Serve it well chilled with mezze, prawns, asparagus or Thai-inspired dishes with a little ginger and lime. It can also be a lovely aperitif when you want something more interesting than the usual bottle of fizz.
Malagousia and Roditis
Malagousia is the softer, more generous side of Greek white wine. It often brings peach, melon, herbs and flowers, with enough freshness to keep it balanced. If you enjoy Viognier, Chenin Blanc or fuller-bodied Sauvignon Blanc, seek it out.
Roditis is widely planted and can vary considerably. In the right hands, particularly from higher-altitude vineyards, it makes dry, citrusy whites with an appealing herbal character. It is often an excellent choice for a relaxed midweek supper when you want freshness without too much sharpness.
Agiorgitiko
For red wine drinkers, Agiorgitiko is one of the friendliest Greek grapes to meet. Most closely associated with Nemea in the Peloponnese, it can range from juicy, cherry-scented reds to richer, oak-aged bottles with plum, sweet spice and chocolate notes. Its tannins are generally supple, making it a natural choice for those who enjoy Merlot, Rioja Crianza or ripe Sangiovese.
Lighter examples work slightly chilled with charcuterie, pizzas and grilled vegetables. More structured versions are better with lamb, beef or slow-cooked aubergine dishes. The label will not always tell you exactly where on that spectrum a wine sits, so it pays to ask your wine merchant for guidance.
Xinomavro
Xinomavro is the more savoury, structured red star. Its name translates roughly as “acid black”, which gives a fair clue to its character: high acidity, notable tannin and dark fruit. In regions such as Naoussa and Amyndeon, it can show sour cherry, tomato leaf, olive, dried herbs and spice. It is often compared with Nebbiolo, though it has a personality entirely its own.
Young Xinomavro may feel firm if you prefer soft, plush reds. Give it a little air, serve it with food and it starts to make sense. Mature examples can be beautifully complex, while lighter, fruit-forward styles from Amyndeon are an approachable route in.
Regions worth looking for
Santorini is the headline act for whites, but it is not the only region to remember. The Peloponnese offers tremendous variety, including Nemea for Agiorgitiko and Mantinia for Moschofilero. It is a useful area for a mixed case because the wines can cover everything from delicate aromatic whites to warming reds.
Northern Greece is essential red-wine territory. Naoussa is Xinomavro country, producing wines that reward a meal and a little patience. Amyndeon, further north and higher in altitude, is known for fresher expressions of Xinomavro and also makes excellent sparkling wines. Drama and other northern areas have built a strong reputation for polished modern styles, including blends of local and international grapes.
Crete deserves attention for its food-friendly, sunlit wines. Grapes such as Vidiano can produce textured whites with stone fruit and herbal notes, while Liatiko offers fragrant reds that may be light, spicy and very enjoyable with Mediterranean cooking. The islands beyond Santorini also provide compelling bottles, though availability in the UK can be more limited.
How to choose Greek wine with confidence
Start with the style you normally enjoy, rather than trying to memorise every grape. If you like sharp, mineral whites, choose Assyrtiko. For floral, aromatic freshness, look for Moschofilero. If you favour rounded whites, Malagousia or Vidiano may suit you better. Agiorgitiko is a comfortable bridge into Greek reds, while Xinomavro is for the drinker who enjoys structure, savoury flavours and wines that evolve in the glass.
Price can be a helpful guide, but not a complete one. Santorini is a small, demanding region and its wines often cost more than mainland Assyrtiko. That does not mean a less expensive mainland bottle is second-rate. It may simply offer a different, fruitier expression and better value for a casual supper.
Look for a recent vintage on fresh, unoaked whites, unless you deliberately want the depth of a more serious Assyrtiko. With reds, producer style matters more. Some Agiorgitiko is made for easy drinking, while other bottles are built for the cellar. A specialist merchant can help match the bottle to whether you are opening it tonight, taking it to dinner or laying it down.
Serving and pairing Greek wine
Greek wines are at their best around food, but you do not need to cook a full feast. Assyrtiko is brilliant with fish and chips, oysters, salty cheeses and lemony chicken. Moschofilero suits lighter mezze, salads and fragrant Asian dishes. Malagousia has the body for roast pork, creamy pasta or halloumi from the grill.
For reds, Agiorgitiko works with burgers, tomato-based pasta and lamb kebabs. Xinomavro is particularly good with roast lamb, mushroom dishes, game and slow braises, where its acidity cuts through richness. Try serving lighter Greek reds just below room temperature, around 14-16°C, especially in a warm kitchen. They will taste fresher and more defined.
At Givino, we think the best bottle is not necessarily the most famous one. It is the one that fits the meal, the people around the table and your appetite for trying something new. Start with a grape that sounds appealing, pour it with dinner, and let Greece surprise you.
